Route 6 ~ Basle to Zurich, By Brugg, The Baths Of Schintznach and Baden

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The road is the same as Route 3, as far as Rheinfelden

The route was “identical with Routes 3 and 5” following the No.2 National Velo Route for 40km from Basel to Stein before splitting off to the No.56 cycle route to Frick and the long climb to the summit of “the hill of Bötzberg” (Bözberg Pass), through the villages of Hornussen and Effingen.

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Other than commanding “a fine view of The Alps”, Murray explained how the Romans constructed the main road, named the hill the cycle path goes over, “Mons Vocetius”  and, in A.D. 69, “on this spot”, fought a battle which defeated the Helvetians.”

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Dropping down into Brugg

A wooden bridge, 70ft long, leads across the Aar, which here flows in a contracted bed.

The wooden bridge may have gone but the stone bridge into the Old Town is one of the highlights of the city, the river flowing far below. You get a great view of this crossing from the new road bridge further along.

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Brugg, or Bruck – a walled town of great antiquity, having been an ancient possession of the House of Habsburg.

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In Murray’s day. It boasted “800 inhabitants”. Now, there are 11,000, of which one is my ex-girlfriend, who lived there with her parents, whom I never got introduced to, nor knew that I even existed, despite us dating for over three years. Read into that what you will, but it probably explains my bitterness to the town, which I was hardly enthusiastic about before even meeting her.

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It is the birth-place of Zimmerman, physician of Frederick the Great, who wrote on Solitude

Even with my bitter eyes, I have to admit, that there are more interesting highlights to Brugg than Murray’s offering of the fact that the doctor of some big-headed guy called Freddie, who referred to himself as being “Great”, happened to come from there.

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It got me thinking, what would you call yourself, if you could go down in history like Frederick The Great (although I can’t help but feel he stole the moniker from Alexander). I mean, can you imagine the day that Ivan Vasilyevich woke up and said “I’m fed up with people not being able to pronounce my surname; from now on, I want you to call me Ivan The Terrible?”  or the meeting where Vlad Dracula got told by his image rights lawyer, “I’m sorry sir, the courts have ruled in favour of Bram Stoker’s publishers, as apparently your name is not a registered Trademark, so, for that reason, to prevent any misunderstanding, I suggest you rename yourself ‘Vlad The Impaler’.” I decided that “Neil The Underwhelming” fitted me perfectly.


ACCOMMODATION / RESTAURANTS IN BRUGG (64km and 88km):

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Rothes Haus, Maison Rouge

Still the centrepoint of town, Hotel Rotes Haus offers 20 bedrooms together with a busy bar and restaurant.

[CLICK HERE FOR ROOMS]

 

Inns: Sterne, Etoile

I couldn’t locate where this hotel would have been


 

The country around Brugg is interesting, both in a geographical and historical point of view. In the plain, a little below the town, three of the principal rivers of Switzerland, which drain the North slopes of the Alps, from the Grisons to the Jura, the Limmat, the Reuss, and the Aar, form a junction, and, united under the name of the Aar, throw themselves into the Rhine about 10 miles below Brugg, at a place called Coblenz 

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Close upon this meeting of the waters, and on the triangular tongue of land between the Aar and Reuss, stood Vindonissa, the most important settlement of the Romans in Helvetia, as well as their strongest fortress on this frontier, on which they placed their chief dependence for maintaining this portion of their empire. 

Interestingly, Vindonissa, the only Roman legion camp in Switzerland, is now little more than a sports hall, allotments and a sewage works, the latter of which, according to the signage, was being maintained by the company owned by my ex’s father; possibly explaining where her habit of talking shit came from.

Yet scarcely any portion of it now appears above ground; traces of an amphitheatre, a subterranean aqueduct, which conveyed water from Brauneggberg, 3 miles off, foundations of walls, broken pottery, inscriptions, and coins have been turned up by the spade from time to time, and its name is preserved in that of the miserable little village of Windisch 

There’s an interesting Vindonissa Museum back in the town centre, described as one of the most beautiful museums in Switzerland, and highlighting the most significant findings from more than 100 years of excavations…

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However I didn’t have time for that, as I cycled up the steep hill to the “miserable little village of Windisch“.

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At the Legionärspfad Vindonissa, the “subterranean aqueduct” Murray spoke of, remains the only still working Roman aqueduct north of the Alps. It was here that I encountered some modern day Roman soldiers at a summer camp. Their teacher, dressed as a Roman centurion, encouraged young children to throw sticks, rocks and arrows at each other, as they crouched behind wooden shields, in stark contrast to any Health & Safety laws that even the Holy Roman Empire would have imposed.

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Half a mile beyond the walls of Brugg stands the abbey of Konigsfelden (King’s field), founded 1310, by the Empress Elizabeth and Agnes, Queen of Hungary, on the spot where, two years before, their husband and father, the Emperor Albert, was assassinated. 

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The convent was suppressed in 1528, and is now converted into a lunatic asylum.

My ex had told me stories of a time when she had worked at the hospital, which is still a lunatic asylum (or Mental Health unit, to give it its modern politically correct moniker), and, when nobody was around, she had been able to explore all the ancient tunnels and rooms below it for hours…. “before the nurses found you, gave you a sedative, fastened your straight jacket and took you back to your padded room?”, I added.

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It was actually my turn to privately explore the Kloster Königsfelden abbey . Well, I say privately; I had actually arrived just as the lovely old lady who was manning the entrance desk to the cathedral and museum was locking up for the night. When I told her about my task of following “Murray’s Handbook For Travellers in Switzerland, 1838”, she got all excited and gave me a private tour of the entire grounds, unlocking doors and showing me rooms not normally open to the public.

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“The church, fast falling into decay, contains some fine painted glass; and the effigies in stone, as large as life, of a long train of nobles, who fell in the battle of Sempach.”

The Cathedral, with its huge delightful windows, is absolutely stunning. A large exhibition of the Battle of Sempach was interesting to read, especially having only just visited the battlefield a few days earlier (Route 4).

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“The vaults beneath were the burial-place of many members of the Austrian family, including Agnes and Leopold, who fell at Sempach, but they were removed hence into the Austrian dominions in 1770.”

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The vaults are still there and, having crossed paths with old Leo on Route 4, (at both the English War of 1376 and the Battle of Sempach in 1386, where he had died), it was nice to catch up with him once again and see what he’d been upto since (moving to Austria apparently).

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Murray describes the murder of Albert I of Habsburg, King Of Rome and Germany, son of Rudolf I and rival king to Adolf of Nassau (presumably not Funky Nassau), in great detail: “He had crossed the ferry of the Reuss in a small boat” with his four mates, the main one being his nephew, John of Saubia, who held a grudge at being “kept out of his parental inheritance by his uncle”.

In broad daylight and in sight of a large number of armed guards, John struck his uncle “in the throat with his lance”. If that wasn’t painful enough, some chap named Balm, Albert’s regular pub quiz partner, then put his sword through him, still angered about being over ruled in the Geography Round, despite knowing that Andermatt was indeed in Uri, and not Valais, as the Emperor had claimed. Walter von Eschenbach, whom had just returned from a lovely all-inclusive 14 day break in Benidorm with Albert, during which they’d had a brief falling out because he’d forgotten his riding license, which caused a mix up at the Hayvis horse rental desk, “cleft his skull with a felling stroke”. His other mate, Wart, “took no share in the murder”, presumably shouting “calm down lads, calm down, somebody’s going to get hurt” as the others got more aggressively violent, after one too many Appenzeller alpenbitters.

The three murderers, and all those who witnessed it, including the guards – Wart and all, to coin a phrase – ran away in different directions, presumably shouting “bloody hell you nobs, we’re all going to get a bollocking for this”, leaving Albert “to breathe his last in the arms of a poor peasant who happened to pass” with an “Aye up Chuck, what’s gone on here, like?”

The Cathedral was built two years later and “the high altar stands on the spot where Albert fell.”

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The story doesn’t end there though.

“A direful vengeance was wrecked by the children on the murdered monarch; not, however, upon the murderers – for with the exception of Wart, the only one who did not raise his hand against him, they all escaped – but upon their families, relations, and friends.”

Over 1000 people were killed as punishment for “a crime of which they were totally innocent”, 63 “butchered” before evil Queen Agnes, for her own gratification. I made a note to myself to remove all those Facebook friends who I barely know, but have accepted their friendship request regardless, on the strength of just one encounter, or the fact we went to the same school together.

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Stood in the pretty gardens, looking up at the picturesque Cathedral, which I had admired on many an occasion beforehand, all of a sudden seemed less beautiful with the knowledge acquired from Murray, that it was built by an angry queen, seeking revenge, and “endowed with the confiscated property of those she had slaughtered”

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Apparently, Agnes later seeked redemption “for the bloody deeds which she had committed” however was told by a holy hermit, “to whom she had applied for absolution”:

“Woman – God is not to be served with bloody hands, nor by the slaughter of innocent persons, nor by convents built with the plunder of orphans and widows – but by mercy and forgiveness of injuries.”

Obviously this was 1310, and the Catholic Church was less of a business in those days, where, after murdering innocents, Mafia bosses, Irish Republican terrorists and Mexican drug lords could not simply pay for forgiveness, claiming tax relief on their annual return as “charitable donations”.

“That which is shown as her cell is not so in reality”

Yet again, Murray ruined the local tourist industry with another researched truth. He seemed to be correcting a lot of false claims with his “Handbook”, to which I can only imagine the well-to-do 1830s English traveller getting into all sorts of holier than thou arguments with local tourist guides.

 

Across the road from the kloster, I cycled past the “traces of an amphitheatre” on the long hard ascent of the Habsburg.

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About two miles above Brugg, on a wooded height called Wulpelsberg, stand the remains of the Castle of Habsburg, or Habichtsburg (Hawk’s Castle), the cradle of the House of Austria, built in the 11th century by Bishop Werner of Strassburg an ancestor of the family. A mere fragment of the original building now exists. The tall square keep of rough stones has walls 8ft thick and beneath it a dungeon to be entered only by a trapdoor in the floor above.

Schloss Habsburg is well worth the effort to cycle to. Having briefly visited it from Aarau on Route 5, it was good to approach it from the opposite side and actually learn more about its historic importance from the teachings of Murray.

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The view from it is picturesque and interesting; the eye ranges along the course of the three rivers over the site of the Roman Vindonissa and Konigsfelden, the sepulchre of imperial Albert: on the South rises the ruined castle of Braunegg, which belonged to the sons of the tyrant Gessler and below it Birr, where Pestalozzi, the teacher, died and is buried. It takes in at a single glance the whole Swiss patrimony of the Habsburgs – an estate far more limited than that of many a British peer – from which Rudolph was called to wield the sceptre of Charlemagne.

It was interesting to read that the Habsburgs (or House of Austria), one of the most influential royal houses of Europe for hundreds of years,  not only ruled much of the continent from here, but actually did so from an estate far smaller than many of Murray’s target readership, the rich travellers of Victorian Britain.

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The House of Austria were deprived of their Swiss territories by papal ban 150 years after Rudolph’s elevation but it is believed that the ruin has again become the property of the Austrian Emperor by purchase.

Rudolf I had a very shiny nose, and, if you ever saw it, you would even say it glows. All of the other Habsburgs used to laugh and call him names. They never let poor Rudolf join in any Habsburg games. So, in 1276, some 250 years and seven generations after the castle was built, he moved the family’s power base from Schloss Habsburg to Vienna. It wasn’t until 140 years after that however, in 1415, that Duke Frederick IV of Habsburg lost the entire canton of Aargau to the Swiss, and thus his historic family home. He may have lost Switzerland, however the cost of having to buy back land, including the castle, did gain him a new title: Duke Frederick of the Empty Pockets – seriously, I didn’t even make that name up.


SCHLOSS HABSBURG RESTAURANT (75km):

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As well as housing a small museum (free entry), today the castle is home to the excellent Schlossrestaurant Habsburg, which serves up regional specialities within the castle walls, or outside on the sun terrace. This now being Switzerland and no longer Austria; those also of the Empty Pockets may find prices a burden.

[CLICK HERE FOR MENU]


 

Below the castle, at the foot of the Wulpelsberg, and about 3 miles from Brugg, lie the Baths of Schintznach, also called Habsburger Bad, the most frequented watering-place in Switzerland. 

Back at Bad Schinznach for a second time (after also visiting on Route 5), it was interesting to read how popular they were in 1837. During my visit, most of the complex was undergoing massive redevelopment, having to modernise after losing nearly all of its custom to the far superior thermal baths at Bad Zurzach, just 20km north (where I live) – which did not even warrant a mention by Murray, as the hot springs were not discovered nor the baths opened until 120 years after he passed by on Route 2.

The principal buildings are the Great Inn, Grosser Gasthof, and the Bath-house, erected within a few years in a semicircular form.

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The waters are of the saline sulphureous kind, and have a temperature of 60° Fahr. They are efficacious in cutaneous disorders, in rheumatism, and for wounds

The water temperature nowadays is 102°F (39°C) however, as I have no “cutaneous disorders” that I know of, other than the odd saddle sores, I was not in need of their “efficacious” treatment and headed back along the Aare into Brugg once more.

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ACCOMMODATION / RESTAURANTS AT BAD SCHINZNACH (80km)

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The principal buildings are the Great Inn, Grosser Gasthof, and the Bath-house, erected within a few years, in a semicircular form. In May and June, 300 people often dine here in the splendid saloon. The house contains sleeping accommodation for 200, and 50 baths. 

Today the Kurhotel Im Park offers 31 rooms and a fine dining restaurant, whilst the Bad-Stübli offers less formal dining, as does the Aquarena restaurant within the baths, and the Magma bar and lounge.

[CLICK HERE FOR ROOMS}   [CLICK HERE FOR MENUS]


 

Whilst Murray states:

Schintznach owes little to nature except its waters Some pretty walks have been made near the houses and winding paths under the shade of trees lead up the hill to Habsburg 

I was more interested in the pretty cycle path (VeloRoute 5 and 8) that runs along the island in the middle of the Aare (accessed by the bridge near Schinznach-Bad railway station). It leads through a riverside forest almost the entire way into Brugg.

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Passing by Kloster Königsfelden and Windisch once more “before it crosses the river Reuss”, where Albert had endured his murderous boat trip, I followed the main road “up the left bank of the Limmat” through Gebenstorf and Turgi before arriving in “the ancient walled town” of Baden, which, despite being my local town and one I visit daily, was to take on a different guise with Murray’s teachings..

Not far from the headquarters of ABB, one of the largest engineering companies in the world, founded 54 years after Murray passed the same road, is the short climb to the ruins of Berg Stein.

The ruins of the Castle, nearly as large as the place itself, overlook it from a rocky eminence. It was anciently the stronghold of the Austrian princes and their residence while Switzerland belonged to them. Here were planned the expeditions against the Swiss which were frustrated at Morgarten and Sempach. At length, when the Pope in 1415, excommunicated the Archduke Frederick, the Swiss took it and burnt it. 

Again, as on each of the previous Routes, I was confused at the Swiss attitude of destroying what spoils of war would have rightfully been theirs, especially given they had left enough ruins to still serve as a reminder of what once stood. From this particular one, I admired the magnificent view over the town below.

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Heading back down the hill, I went into the Old Town, which Murray, in typical miserable fashion, deemed to be “not equal in beauty to some of its namesakes in other parts of Europe.”  Perhaps he was just simply trying to sell more copies of his “A Hand-book for Travellers on the Continent”.

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In the Rathhaus of Baden the preliminaries preceding the treaty of peace which terminated the war of Succession, were arranged by Prince Eugene, on the part of Austria and by Marshal Villars for France, in 1712

The Habsburg dynasty is certainly one worth making a TV series about. Following the death of Charles II, Habsburg King of Spain, who, due to massive inbreeding within his family in an attempt to retain their rule, was born mentally and physically disabled. His father was also his mother’s uncle. Tickle one, and they all laugh.

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Even if they could have found some local harem to sleep with the ugly bugger, who it is said did not wash and only learned to walk at the age of 10, it would have made no difference, as he was infertile. It was this shortage of quality sperm that would go on to threaten world peace as, when he died, the last in line of the Spanish Habsburgs, his chosen heir was his 16-year-old grand-nephew, Philip, whom was still studying GCSE Rulership at Anjou High School at the time. Young Phil was the grandson of Charlie’s half-sister, Maria Theresa of Spain, the first wife of Louis XIV, King of France.

With the rest of  Europe unhappy at the now powerful relationship France and Spain had inherited, war broke out in 1702. It was here, at the Rathaus in Baden that the treaty was signed on 7th September 1714, bringing an end to 12 years of war, in which the Austrian Habsburgs, Great Britain and the Dutch recognised Philip as King of Spain, who in turn renounced any claim to the throne of France, who in turn recognised British sovereignty over Rupert’s Land (Hudson’s Bay) and Newfoundland and ceded Acadia (parts of America and Canada) as well as Saint Kitts to Great Britain, as well as Breisgau to the Austrian Habsburgs. Spain agreed to return the low countries (now Belgium and Luxembourg) to the Netherlands; give Naples, Milan and Sardinia to the Austrian Habsburgs; cede Sicily to Savoy; and gift Gibraltar and Minorca to Britain, 300 years before the 2016 vote for Brexit as good as gave them back.

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Agreeable walks are formed for invalids by the side of the Limmat and many pleasant excursions may be made in the country around. 

Following the cobbled streets of the Old Town to the “left bank of the Limmat, here crossed by a wooden bridge”, I  followed the delightful riverside path (on the left before crossing the bridge), weaving in and out of the “invalids” on my way to the thermal baths.

 

Baden, like its namesakes in Baden and Austria, was frequented on account of its mineral waters by the Romans who called it Therma Helvetiice.

The Baths are situated on the borders of the Limmat, a quarter of a mile below, or North of the town. They are resorted to between the months of June and September by numerous visitors, chiefly natives of Switzerland. The waters are warm and sulphureous, having a temperature of 38 Reaum and are good for rheumatism &c.

The Great Bath on the left bank of the river are frequented by the upper classes; those on the opposite side by the lower orders

Today, the baths on both sides of the river have gone – the public baths closed down in 2015, due to the popularity of neighbouring Bad Zurzach – and a huge project is currently underway to reintroduce the 47 °C thermals, which, in the meantime, can be accessed from the various private springs within the spa hotels, all dating back to Murray’s time. A huge modern building is set to open in 2018, which sadly sees many of the historic buildings in the area destroyed. [CLICK HERE FOR INFO]

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Roman relics are constantly discovered in this district. Gambling appears to have been a prevailing vice among the visitors to the baths and the Roman Legions stationed here, since a neighbouring field has obtained the name of Dice Meadow (Wurfel Wiese), from the quantity of dice dug up in it.

Today, the local council obviously used this Roman history to overcome Switzerland’s tough gambling laws, and Dice Meadow is now, rather fittingly, Grand Casino Baden, arguably the most prestigious gambling house in Switzerland.

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ACCOMMODATION / RESTAURANTS IN BADEN (63km or 103km)

Inns: Lowe, Lion; Engel, Ange

These inns in the town are inferior to those at the baths.

Both hotels seem to have disappeared, as do most at the baths, where you will still find the best in town…

 The Baths – Inns: Stadthof, best 

The Staadhof Hotel was demolished in the 1960s to make way for the Hotel Verenahof, which will be reconstructed into a rehabilitation clinic with Health Hotel and a public restaurant as part of the redevelopment of the thermal baths.

 

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Hinterhof

Dating back to the 14th Century, The Hinterhof was demolished in the 1870s, struggling to keep up with the grand hotels that had opened around it. The original building being on the spot where “Romerbad” is now, opposite the church, before it is destroyed to make way for the ugly new building (here), which should modernise the area by 2018.

[CLICK HERE FOR HISTORY OF HINTERHOF]

In this area, most of the buildings now belong to the plush Limmathof Baden Hotel & Spa, which features various thermal and steam baths, opened the year before Murray’s visit in 1836. There’s a bistro open to the public too.  Rooms from CHF220.

[CLICK HERE FOR ROOMS}

 

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I’m not sure which hotel Murray refers to here, as there seems to be no record of it.


 

The pleasantest road to Zurich from Baden is said to be that along the right bank of the Limmat. It passes at the distance of about two miles the convent of Wettingen, situated in an angle formed by a bend of the river. Its church, founded in 1227 contains tombs of some early Counts of Habsburg and Kyburg, painted glass, carved stalls etc. 

I’d never actually been in Kloster Wettingen before, despite spending many a summer night there. As well as a school, there’s a wonderful brewery, which is where I often go to watch the World Cup and Euros on a big screen.  I can recommend Lagerbrau’s beers just as much as the church’s tombs and painted glass.

Dating back to 1227, the history of the monastery is amazing. Interestingly, in 1841, just three years after Murray visited, the Aargau government decreed the dissolution of all monasteries in the Canton. The monks, including Alberich Zwyssig, composer of the Swiss national anthem, were kicked out and their library stolen by the Aargau Canton Library. They were left wandering the streets with nowhere to go for 13 years until they set up the Wettingen-Mehrerau Abbey in Bregenz, Austria. The buildings remained empty for over 130 years until 1976, when the local school moved in and Roman Catholic services were held once more at the church. 

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RESTAURANTS IN WETTINGEN (108km):

Although not in “Murray’s Handbook”, The Restaurant Sternen, adjacent to the abbey, is the oldest guesthouse in Switzerland, and was built with the church in 1227 (as the “Weiberhaus”) to serve the visiting mothers and sisters of the monks, who were prevented from entering the male only grounds of the monastery.

Today, you can enjoy Swiss classics in the Klostertaverne or beer garden with an extensive menu (from CHF50 for 3 courses), or a gourmet meal in the Stella Maris Stube (CHF75 for a 3 course menu). [CLICK HERE FOR MENU]

Whilst here, for liquid refreshments, you should also visit the brilliant Klosterbrauerei Lägerebräu, also on the abbey grounds.


 

The route taken by the diligence follows the left bank of the Limmat to Dietikon. Near this village, the French under Massena, crossed the river, Sept 24 1799 – a masterly movement, which led to the defeat of the Russians and the capture of Zurich 

Crossing the railway at Dietikon station and joining the river, today, an engraved rock marks the spot where they crossed, and, if you’re ever in Paris, check out the Arc De Triomphe, which name checks Dietikon in its commemoration of the Second Battle Of Zurich.

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The road into Zurich follows the river all the way and is a pleasant ride, watching the locals sunbathing or floating downstream on their rubber dinghies.

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ZURICH ACCOMMODATION / RESTAURANTS (132km):

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Schwerdt (Epée) – overlooking the Limmat, close to the broad wooden bridge which serves as a market place – expensive, and neither good nor very clean. Beds 3 fr. – in private 4 fr.; tea and breakfast, 2 fr.

A guesthouse had existed in the large Haus zum Schwert at Weinplatz 10 from 1421 and, under the guise of Hôtel de L’Epée, became the best hotel in Zurich, welcoming famous guests like Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Johannes Brahms, Giacomo Casanova, Louis Napoleon, Alexandre Dumas, Tsar Alexander of Russia, Franz Liszt, Johann Wolfgang Goethe, Victor Hugo, King Frederick William III of Prussia, King Gustav Adolf IV of Sweden and Emperor Joseph II of Austria, amongst a whole host of royalty. A few months after Murray’s book had gone to print in 1838, the Hôtel Baur en Ville (now the Savoy) opened nearby and, the competition it posed, with presumably better and cleaner rooms, proved to be, rather fittingly, the death sword to the Epée. Since 1918, the building has belonged to the city and its ground floor is home to the Dolce & Gabbana store.

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I’ve so far been unable to locate this building.

 

Storch (Cycogne), table d’hote, with wine 2 fr. 8 sous; bed 2 fr.; breakfast 1 fr. 4 sous.

The Hotel Storchen next to the Schwerdt dates back to 1357 and was rebuilt in its current form in 1838, just as Murray’s book was going to print. Today, a room will set you back a hefty CHF 488 a night, whilst the table d’hote in the popular restaurant now costs CHF 100, CHF 170 with wine. A business lunch is half the price and, whilst waiting for your food, you can read about the history of the hotel here.

[CLICK HERE FOR ROOMS]     [CLICK HERE FOR MENU]

 

The inns at Zurich are notoriously dirty, high priced and ill attended: they have hitherto enjoyed a monopoly, and there has been no inducement to improve. But at this time (1837) two large new inns are building – one near the outlet of the Limmat from the lake, on the right bank of the river; the other near the new post office.

It was this greed and laziness that led to the 500 year old Schwerdt closing down and the rebuilding of the Storch the following year.

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The latter of the hotels which Murray says was responsible for breaking this monopoly, was the Hôtel Baur en Ville (now the 5 star Savoy),“near the new post office”. Whilst no longer “notoriously dirty” or “ill attended”, it is just as much “high priced” as ever, with rooms costing from a whopping CHF 690 a night.

[CLICK HERE FOR ROOMS]

 

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The other hotel would have been the Hotel Du Lac at Limmatquai 16 (as shown on this picture from 1845). This stretch was originally called Sonnenquai and, like the hotel, was built around the time Murray visited. No longer a hotel, today it is home to the Molino Select Italian restaurant.

 


ROUTE:

16⅓ stunden = 53 English miles.

Diligences daily.

Following the No.2 National Velo Route for 40km from Basel to Stein before splitting off to the No.56 cycle, following it over The Bozberg Pass, which is not too difficult at an average 2.5% gradient over 9km (reaching 8% in places). Keep following the No.56 cycle route into Brugg at the summit, which takes you off the main road and upto the hill. From here it is pretty easy to follow. The entire route is possible by road bike.

 

0km ~ BASEL

20km ~ RHEINFELDEN   up  75 m   down  90 m

38km ~ STEIN    up  240 m   down  205 m

46km ~ FRICK   up  75 m   down  25 m

50km ~ HORNUSSEN   up  40 m

54km ~ EFFINGEN    up  50 m

57km ~ NEUSTALDEN / BOZBERG   up  150 m   down  10 m

64km ~ BRUGG   up  15 m   down  255 m

67km ~ BRUGG ~ VINDONISSA (Aare/Reuss junction)  → flat

70km ~ WINDISCH ~ KLOSTER KOENIGSFELDEN    up  30 m

71km ~ WINDISCH ~ AMPHITHEATER VINDONISSA   up  5 m

75km ~ SCHLOSS HABSBURG  up  140 m   down  10 m

80km ~ BAD SCHINZNACH   down  150 m

88km ~ BRUGG  → flat

99km ~ BADEN ~ BURGRUINE STEIN  up  125 m   down  45 m

101km ~ BADEN ~ RATHAUS  down  60 m

103km ~ BADEN ~ LIMMATHOF (Baths)  up  10 m   down  30 m

104km ~ BADEN ~ GRAND CASINO  up  25 m

108km ~ KLOSTER WETTINGEN   up  30 m   down  30 m

120km ~ DIETIKON (Massena Statue)  up  40 m   down  35 m

132km ~ ZURICH  → flat

 


Route 5 ~ Basel – Aarau

Route 7 ~ Schaffhausen & Rhinefalls  >

~ All routes ~  Introduction ~


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